When it comes to make-up, it’s all in the details – from the shape of a blush brush to the curl of a mascara wand. The slightest error can jeopardise a look, or even force you to have to (shudder) wipe it all off and start over again. One common slip-up when it comes to everyday make-up application? Cakey foundation. Fortunately, there are a few fixes that can swiftly rescue your base to ensure that it stays looking smooth and skin-like.
We asked pro make-up artist Emily Wood to reveal her top tips and tricks to banish cakey make-up for good.
Why does my make-up look “cakey”?
Too much powder
“Powder is the main culprit when it comes to a cakey and separated base,” says Wood. Avoid having to apply lots of powder by opting for a mattifying base. This can be in the form of a primer or an oil-free moisturiser, which will help you control areas where oil is visible on your face. Wood also recommends being intentional about where you place your mattifying base. “If you have an oily T-zone, for example, concentrate your product in that area.”
Rushing
While a quick and easy make-up routine is a lifesaver when you’re busy or running late, it is important to take the time to layer each product on properly. “If you hastily place a thick amount of foundation on your face, you’re prone to it cracking and separating when it’s time to add a powder product on top,” Wood explains.
Haphazard layering
“If you apply your products in thinner layers, honing in on specific areas, and are quite delicate and feathery with your movements – whether using a brush or your fingers – you can really feel the difference, sensory-wise, on your face,” Wood adds. “When you give yourself a little more time and work your product into the brush and delicately pat it onto your face, it also looks different and much more smooth.” Going slow and taking the time to build product up gradually can help to refine make-up texture.
How can I fix cakey make-up without having to start over?
Use a small amount of hydrating product as an eraser
“On a day when I’m filming content, I apply a lot of make-up, often layered on top of the last look,” Wood explains. To erase smudges or stray product without completely wiping off her base, Wood reaches for hydrating formulas such as MAC’s Strobe Dewy Skin Tint, or the slightly more heavy-duty Hollywood Flawless Filter by Charlotte Tilbury. “Even the tiniest amount can seamlessly break up a product and fix a mistake, I put some on a brush and softly sweep it on,” Wood adds. “It freshens up your face and gives you a brand new smooth base.”
On the British Vogue beauty desk, we love Jones Road’s Just Enough Tinted Moisturizer for this, too.
Don’t be afraid to use your fingers
Your fingers can be the best make-up tool. “If your make-up looks really cakey in some areas, pat it down with your fingers, which will also warm the product up,” Wood explains. “It works in a similar way to a beauty blender and is a great technique for blurring and smudging.” If that’s a step too far, Wood suggests avoiding dense brushes – swap them for fluffier or stippling brushes that will lightly disperse the product around your face.
How to prevent cakey make-up
Finesse your skin prep
“The biggest tip to avoid cakey make-up is prioritising your skin prep,” Wood points out. Complexion products – foundations, concealers and powders – cling to dry and dehydrated skin. “For clients who have oily skin, I make sure that they have a hydrating moisturiser, and then I hone in on areas that produce the most oil, namely, the T-zone, eyelids and chin. Then I put a mattifying primer on top, which creates a finer base free from an excessive amount of powder.”
Mecca Cosmetica’s In A Good Light Illuminating Drops with SPF30 are also brilliant underneath foundation (or even instead of it). “The drops work incredibly well for under-eye coverage and leave the rest of your face looking glowy and heavenly,” says Wood.
Mecca Cosmetica
In A Good Light Illuminating Drops SPF30
Focus your complexion products on specific areas
“I only wear concealer and I leave the rest of my face bare, and I love that,” Wood shares. Adopting Wood’s approach can be very useful when it comes to avoiding a “cakey” finish.
I tell Wood that when I first began using make-up, I remember feeling as though I had to follow each traditional step. First, a full coverage foundation, then a concealer under the eyes, and finally a powder to set it all in place. Wood agrees, and points out that focusing your attention on smaller areas of the face – just those that actually need coverage – can be a big confidence booster, as well as preventing that cakey finish.