Architectural trends come and go, but Art Deco is forever.
That’s the idea Fernando Jorge had in mind for his latest fine jewelry collection, Vertex, timed to commemorate 100 years since the Jazz Age phenomenon debuted in Paris at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes.
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Echoing Art Deco’s enduring influence worldwide, Jorge captured its signature geometry using the most enduring of gemstones: the diamond, zeroing in on the period’s most fashionable cut: the baguette.
A necklace from Fernando Jorge’s Vertex collection.
“My jewelry usually celebrates nature, so this is a turning point,” explained Jorge, whose undulating designs worn by Beyoncé Knowles-Carter, Naomi Watts and former First Lady Michelle Obama often take inspiration from organic matter such as water or air. Based in London, the Brazilian jeweler said opening his first by-appointment salon in New York this past February wet his palette for man-made symmetry.
“The cherry on top came when I realized that Art Deco was codified in 1925, and then this whole weave of ideas came together,” he added. “It’s a reflection of that period, but I tried to bring it into the rhythm of contemporary, fast-paced city life.”
Although the graduation of stones and stepped details in the 16-piece collection subtly reference Art Deco landmarks like the Chrysler and Empire State buildings, Vertex isn’t tied any one in particular. According to Jorge, the name can either refer to the point in mathematics where two lines meet or to the highest point of those high rises. But there’s a third, less expected meaning, he noted. “Even the sound of the word ‘vertex’ — if you look at the pieces, the way they were constructed, there’s a spine-like movement in the ‘vertebrae.’”
That “vertebrae” is actually made up of 18-karat yellow gold settings fashioned into cuffs and collar necklaces with an eerily skeletal look. Mechanized with hinges through middle, they bend and twist like flappers doing the Charleston. They also allowed Jorge to play with another ‘20s fashion staple, fringe, which sparkles and sways from a pair of magnificent earrings.
Earring from Fernando Jorge’s Vertex collection.
“The final result is a very interesting combination of retro with futurism,” said Jorge. “It’s very much about the repetition. The structure and the diamond cut is what I think resulted in a fresh, modern feeling.”
Vertex launches Thursday and is available at Fernando Jorge’s own retail channels and select partners.
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